excellent Car Projects - You Can Build Your Own
There has never been a good time to build a muscle car project. The availability of aftermarket parts, crate motors, disc brake kits and other upgrades make practically whatever possible. The other plus is the relative low cost of these parts. One can verily start with a bare shell and build a complete top notch car using aftermarket/new parts exclusively. The sky's the limit!!
Another plus with these older era rigs is the simplicity of the cars themselves. They are much easier to work on or build than the newer stuff. No emissions, electronic fuel injection, abs brakes, air bags or any other industrialized systems that need comprehensive specialized training. All the non-sense is outta the way!!
With sites like eBay and Craigslist, there are tons of sources to find solid scheme cars. You can find just about any make/model unbelievable without a lot of effort.
Choosing A Make and Model:
One of the coolest aspects of this whole car building company is choosing your project. You may want to build a numbers matching 100% precise car and re-create a piece of automotive history, or you may want to get an old "mongrel" for cheap and play the creative angle to build something unique. Cost is a big factor here, a extremely sought after numbers matching rig is gonna be much more costly to acquire and build than an old "grocery getter", but both have advantages.
Comparatively, a 1969 Rs/Ss numbers matching Camaro is gonna fetch top dollar if done well, if being at the top of the food chain is prominent to you. The same 1969 Camaro with a puny 327/powergide that was never whatever more than a basic model is obviously going to cost less initially and be easier to find than the "top dog".
I think the lower model is more fun to build because the sky's the limit. It was never whatever extra to begin with, so it's verily a blank canvas that can be cloned or modified with any crazy mods/upgrades. The engine, tranny, color, pretty much any variable is possible. You verily can't do that with an industrialized model without de-valuing it.
Wheelin' and Dealin':
There are running, driving cars that need a diminutive tlc, or there are absolute basket cases out there that can be had for cheap. It depends on the estimate of ambition you have. I prefer the basket cases for lots of reasons.
The main think is there are lots of 'em laying around. Lots of guys start these projects with a lot of enthusiasm, but ultimately get in over their heads. They don't have the money or the expertise to see the scheme straight through to the end, and it becomes a nightmare. It's not unusual to find projects that come with tons of new parts and killer stuff that cost a small fortune, and now the owner just wants it all gone. If a car on jackstands in someones stable disassembled in a billion diminutive pieces doesn't scare you, there are very good deals out there for you.
Assessing The Condition:
The estimate one thing i look at when assessing any scheme is structural condition. Look at the frame rails, suspension mounts, crossmembers etc. For damage or rot. Quantum the frame diagonally to be sure the frame isn't crooked. Quantum from the cowl area to the outer projection of the radiator withhold to ensure it's dimensionally correct. It doesn't have to Quantum "dead-nuts" on, but if there's positive heavy damage you should find it early.
The good news is that any inherent damage is fixable! Just because there is a 2 inch square hole rusted straight through the rear frame rail doesn't mean the car should go to the crusher!! If fact, the more problems you find are just ammunition you can use to get a lower buy price. Don'T Be Afraid Of Damage/Rust! It's all fixable.
Look at door hinges and latches. Window regulators. Dashboard wiring. Is the fuel tank dented? Is all the door glass tinted the same? Has someone hacked up the car in any way to do some freaky custom stuff? Are all the nuts/bolts/fasteners there? Brackets? These are often overlooked details that can be a royal pain to deal with later.
It should go without saying to be sure the title is clear. Previously wrecked cars can be re-titled as "salvage" vehicles. This doesn't mean the car is verily damaged beyond repair, it means that the insurance company thought about that the cost to repair the car at the time of the damage/accident exceeded the value, so it was "totalled". For example if you owned a 1967 Dodge Dart in that was damaged in 1981, it wouldn't take much damage to exceed "book value" on what was at that time a run-of-the-mill grocery getter.
This affects re-sale value more than whatever else, it is a mild inhibitive from buying the car, but again, it's leverage to negotiate. If you never plan to sell the car, re-sale value wouldn't be an issue.
Practical Thoughts:
It's very inherent to spend years looking for a "perfect project". The problem with that type of conservative mental is that you'll never find whatever "perfect". At some point, you have to stop picking every prospective car to death and jump into the game. For example, is a carved up dashboard verily going to be the inequity in a successful build and a life altering nightmare? It doesn't take long on any scheme to find surprises, dealing with them without catastrophising them is the inequity in cars that get fulfilled, and old rustbuckets on jackstands. A fulfilled, car with flaws is worth more than a car that'll be excellent someday. There's an old saying in business: At some point it is primary to shoot the engineers and begin production.
Calculating The Cost To end The Build:
This is where most would-be projects go wrong. You should have a clear idea of what it's all gonna cost before you even look at a car. The bad news is these projects can get out of operate verily quick if you're not careful. The good news is there are lots of good sources for parts, and catalogs to job-cost the project.
A good first time scheme would be to just re-condition an old rig without a lot of upgrades. You can strengthen your skills with verily super trick stuff after a few builds. It doesn't take long before you'll be able to build about whatever you want.
Here's an example of a basic budget for a uncomplicated recondition project:
Initial purchase: 00
Sheetmetal/body parts: 0
Paint/body materials: 0
Rebuild brakes: 5
Rebuilt engine/longblock: 00
Engine add-ons: 50
(headers, holley carb, Hei ignition,
trick valve covers, etc.)
Drivetrain upgrades: 0
(u-joints, tranny cooler, steering
linkage, etc)
Bumpers/trim mouldings: 00
Windshield: 5
Interior Kit: 0
Tires/Wheels: 00
Misc surprises: 00
Est cost to build: ,110
Summary:
Building these cars is a real kick, there is nothing like rescuing an old car with your own hands. The only way to learn to do this is to just get a scheme and go for it. The good news is it's not that difficult. A willingness to get your hands dirty goes a lot added than high mechanical ability. someone with basic mechanical aptitude can verily build a musclecar.
excellent Car Projects - You Can Build Your Own
Avicii vs Nicky Romero - I Could Be The One (Nicktim)
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Avicii vs Nicky Romero - I Could Be The One (Nicktim)
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Avicii vs Nicky Romero - I Could Be The One (Nicktim)
Avicii vs Nicky Romero - I Could Be The One (Nicktim)
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12 Items You Can'T Sell On Ebay
Millions of would-be entrepreneurs want to sell things on ebay. Ebay is the #1 home-business opportunity in the world right now, so it's natural that many are eager to find very profitable items for re-sale on eBay. However, it's leading to know that there are positive items that can't be sold. Here are a dozen of them ...
Some items are copyright infringement and can precisely land a jobber in federal prison:
1. Knock offs of music, Tv shows or movies. The "bootleg" movies, for example, are often made by guys who sneak a movie camera into a newly-released movie where presumably, they crouch behind a seat and make a crummy copy. There is a large production of these counterfeit items in Asia where Us laws have no power.
2. Software and computer games can likewise be copied and their sale is illegal by all Us laws.
Naturally, the items above may be sold if you have a copy that you purchased precisely and no longer want.
3. The so-called "replica" store for handbags, designer sunglasses and clothing is surely forbidden although these items are often sold in corporeal stores nearby the Us. Ironically, when attending eBay Live In New Orleans in 2004, we found a store in one of their notable markets selling replica purses that were not allowed on eBay.
4. Lazy and less-than-honest sellers often steal copyrighted material from other sellers. This has happened to me many times and eBay has a schedule called Vero (Verified ownership Owner) that will take off offending auctions, although there seems to be no penalty attached to the seller, which is unfortunate.
5. Alcoholic beverage sales are not allowed although a beverage "container', especially those of wine, may be sold for its value.
6. Cigarettes, cigars, smokeless tobacco or coupons for such items are not permitted on eBay.com.
The eBay rules for collectible tobacco and alcohol packaging are the same:
* The value of the item is in the collectible packaging, not in the wine/tobacco itself.
* The listing narrative should state that the container has not been opened, but that the twine/tobacco within is not for consumption.
* The collectible tobacco packaging must not be available at any sell outlet, and packaging must have a value that substantially exceeds the current sell price of that wine/tobacco goods in the package.
* Sellers must take steps to ensure that the buyer of these collectibles is at least 18 years of age
7. Firearms are strictly regulated by Us law and may not be sold on eBay.
8. Satellite and cable Tv descramblers are forbidden by the Federal Trade Commission.
9. Animals and wildlife products may not be sold, which includes stuffed birds and pelts from endangered species. There are tiny sales of ivory, tortoise shell, maritime products and other items relating to animals. This area is quite complex and any would-be jobber needs to fully understand the discrete laws before getting complex in these sales.
10. Event tickets have state-by-state laws that make their sale complex. Some states, for instance, forbid whatever to make more than a few dollars in profit (or no profit at all) on the resale of tickets. For instance, Florida law states that tickets can be resold at no more than face value plus . In such states, these regulations apply only to buyers and sellers placed in the same state as the actual event, meaning if a jobber lives in Florida, he can't profit from ticket sales to Florida events. However, if he lives in any of the other 39 states, this restriction doesn't apply.
11. Listing a catalog of items that a jobber offers for sale is forbidden. The only catalogs legally sold on eBay are collectible kinds, such as an old Sears Roebuck or Montgomery Wards catalog that is memorabilia and doesn't offer current merchandise for sale.
12. Raffles and prizes are 100% prohibited. Agreeing to eBay, such promotions are very regulated and may be unlawful in many states.
There are other kinds of merchandise that a jobber may not sell on eBay, so thought about check eBay rules before listing anything. It's much good to know the rules in enlarge of spending money that can't be recouped.
12 Items You Can'T Sell On Ebay
Avicii vs Nicky Romero - I Could Be The One (Nicktim)
Tube. Duration : 4.77 Mins.
Avicii vs Nicky Romero - I Could Be The One (Nicktim)
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Horse Feed - Comparison separate Types of Horse Food
The food which we feed to horses needs to meet seven basal requirements. Five of these are:
- Energy. It needs to provide sufficient energy (calories) to meet the requirements of the horse. If the weather becomes colder or the horse is used more actively, the estimate of food will need to be increased accordingly. Likewise, as winter turns into summer or if the horse is less active, the estimate of food should be decreased.
- Minerals and Vitamins. Aside from energy, horse feed needs to provide a collection of significant minerals and vitamins, in the required quantities.
- Bulk and High Fiber. The equine digestive ideas has evolved to process grass, which is high in fiber and bulk. Food which is concentrated (e.g. Grain) may provide the required energy and minerals, but lacks the bulk which the digestive ideas needs, which greatly increases the risk of ulcers and other diseases. Studies on horses which a diet high in grain or other concentrated foods show that 50% to 90% of these horses have ulcers.
- Digestability. Food which is poorly digested provides itsybitsy food value and can cause serious illnesses (e.g. Impaction colic). This is a single problem for the older horse, where dental wear reduces his quality to chew food and aging has reduced his quality to suck up determined foods. See 'Feeding Senior Horses' below for details. In addition, horses may eat unsuitable items (e.g. Straw) which do provide food value but due to strangeness in digestion can also follow in problems.
- Safety. Roughly any food, given in an incorrect quantity or fashion, can follow in condition issues. A list of the common mistakes to avoid is provided below.
To understand the other two basal requirements, it helps to first understand the normal eating patterns of horses. Horses have evolved as foragers, which means that they eat for a itsybitsy while in one place, then move on in hunt of best food (e.g. More tender or nutritious) and eat somewhere else. One often sees this behaviour when the horse is in a large pasture, where they often move from place to place. The think for this behaviour is that they evolved in a scenery where the quality of food was variable (as opposed to the largely uniform grassland which we create in our pastures) so they needed to spend most of their time consuming and eating, up to 18 hours per day. This has resulted in two dietary requirements:
- Continuous Feeding. Although a horse does not eat enduringly (e.g. It spends part of its time consuming about and other activities), it needs to eat frequently. It needs a minimum of 2-3 meals per day to keep its digestive ideas healthy, but more frequent eating is preferable. Many small meals are best than a few large meals. This is one of the reasons that horses which graze on pasture while the day are ordinarily healthier than horses which have their food (e.g. Hay or grain) given to them once or twice a day.
- Stimulation. A horse's main stimulation and career comes from looking for food and eating (typical forager activity). Restricting it to short and infrequent feedings will follow in a bored and unhappy horse, which is likely to build stress associated behaviours such as cribbing or repetitive movements.
Grass and Hay
Grass is the most natural food for horses, as it is what they have evolved to eat. In general, horses will tend to be healthier on a diet which consists generally of grass than on any other type of food.
Hay is the second most natural food, being rather close to the dried grass which they might find after a hot and dry summer, or dried winter grass. It is less nutritious than fresh grass but good quality hay is a beneficial alternative when there is not sufficient fresh grass.
There are a large number of poisonous weeds which can be found in some pastures. Depending on the type of plant eaten and the quantity, the follow can be anything from minor to fatal. Some plants can also cause damage the skin or hooves if the horse rolls or walks on them. Consequently, before putting your horse into a pasture, a knowledgeable person should check the pasture for poisonous weeds. As some weeks are illustrated generally in spring and others generally in summer, a thorough walk straight through the pasture at least twice a year to check for suspicious plants is advisable.
With hay, one faces the same issues with poisonous plants, if the hay is made from a pasture with poisonous weeds. In fact, the situation with hay is potentially more dangerous since horses will instinctively avoid eating many of the the poisonous plants if encountered in a pasture, but when they are mixed in with hay and dried the horses are no longer able to identify and avoid them since they have lost their distinctive smell and appearance. Consequently, one should take extra care that one uses hay only from a pasture which is safe or hay that is sourced from a trust worthy source.
The other major risk with grass is that grass which is overly rich in carbohydrates (e.g. Spring grass) or nitrates (e.g. Fertilised field) can cause laminitis or founder. See the preceding link for more facts on how to avoid this. Excessively rich hay may have the same risk, but since hay is made at a time of year when the grass is naturally less rich, this is much less likely.
Another observation is the quality of the hay. It can consist of harmful mold or fungus if it has not been properly dried before being cut, or has gotten wet either prior to or after bailing, or has been stored in plastic bags. Any bales which have mold or fungus should be thrown out rather than used. Hay can also be dusty, ranging from slightly dusty to very dusty, depending on the soil and weather conditions at the time it was made, as well as the way in which it was cut/turned/baled. Very dusty hay should not be used as it can cause respiratory problems in horses. Slightly dusty hay is fine, except for horses which are sensitive to dust. One can soak hay in water to take off the dust, but in this case one needs to clean out uneaten hay each day to stop the wet hay from going off. An advantage of commercial feeds over hay is that in normal they are unlikely to have dust, mold or fungus (unless they have been allowed to get wet as a follow of improper storage).
Hay Cubes or Bricks
Hay cubes (also known as hay bricks) is hay which has been cut and then compressed into a brick shape. This is a favorable way of storing hay as it uses up less space and can form favorable individual portions. It does tend to be more expensive to buy than baled hay and horses with dental issues may find it more difficult to chew. There have been cases of horse choke reported with hay bricks, but this is uncommon. Aside from these differences, it has much the same advantages and disadvantages as normal baled hay (see above).
Hay Pellets
Hay pellets is effectively hay which has been ground up, heat treated and converted to pellets. It tends to be more expensive than hay (partly due to the additional processing), but is also more favorable and uses up about a third of the space as medium-density hay bales. As the pellets are effectively hay in other form, it has much the same nutritional value, except for those brands which add minerals or vitamins.
The pellets can be eaten quicker than hay in its unprocessed format, so provide somewhat less career and stimulation than unprocessed hay. They also tend to break down quicker in the digestive system, so provide somewhat less value in terms of absorbing stomach acids and protecting against ulcers.
A common problem with pellets is that many horses will try to swallow them without first properly chewing them, resulting in the horses choking. If your horse does this, you should soak the pellets in water for 10 minutes or so before feeding to the horse; this causes the pellets to break down into a soupy mix which the horses cannot choke on. The advantages and disadvantages of soaking are:
- Choke. Soaking the pellets prevents the horse from choking on them.
- Water Intake. This is a good way to growth your horse's water intake, as horses do not always drink enough. In particular, older horses sometimes do not drink sufficient (although there are some illnesses which have the opposite effect) and horses being movable often do not drink enough.
- Winter Warming. while the winter, horses can come to be chilled (especially old, sick or shaved horses). If there pellets are soaked in warm water (but not hot water!) this can help them warm up, especially as compared to drinking cold water from an outside pail or unheated drinker.
- Mess. Unfortunately, many horses lift their head away from their feeding pail while eating, and in the case of soaked hay pellets this can follow in them dropping a fair bit on the floor. Furthermore, if they toss their heads while eating (e.g. If startled by a noise), it tends to follow in the hay soup being sprayed on the walls. All such mess should be cleaned up to preclude the growth of mold or fungus. Alternatively, one may wish to feed them from a pail outside.
Grain and Musli
Grain and musli, when purchased in the form of commercial horse feeds, are high-energy foods which are absolutely digested. Musli is made from a choice of crushed grains and may have minerals or vitamins added, as well as sugar, fiber and filler.
An alternative to purchasing commercial horse feeds is to buy the grains yourself, which you can feed either individually or couple to make a musli. In this case, you will likely need to purchase a grain crusher and put the grain straight through the crusher before feeding to horses. The think for this is that uncrushed grain is an large part undigested by the horse since many of the grains are swallowed whole (rather than chewed) and hole grains naturally pass straight through the digestive system. Most moderate-sized stables use this coming since it reduces the cost of grain feed by 50% to 75% as compared to the commercial bagged feeds. Of course, it takes a bit more time and consequently is less favorable than the commercial feeds, and one needs to invest in the crusher (a few hundred dollars).
Although a bag of grain or musli appears expensive when compared to the same quantity of hay, grain is much higher in energy so the estimate of grain required for a horse's daily energy needs is much lower than the estimate of hay. Consequently, depending on local prices, they can be substantially economy than hay. Many brands of musli have added sugar (e.g. In the form of molasses or beetroot pulp), which additional increases the estimate of energy.
These products are fed to horses used for sport, not only for the quick energy which they provide, but also because they follow in a much trimmer body. Hay and grass are not only bulky in themselves, but also follow in additional bulk in terms of digestive gases and food in discrete stages of digestion or elimination. Consequently, for activities such as racing or jumping, the diet of competition horses is usually high in grain or musli.
As the above discusses, the advantages of these types of feed consist of convenience, possible cost savings, and a slim torso for competition. In addition, horses which are old, sick or under-nourished can advantage from having their normal diets supplemented by these high-energy foods, especially while the winter when they need additional energy to keep warm.
Against these advantages, there are a estimate of disadvantages. These energy-dense foods do not offer the bulk, fiber or thinking stimulation required by horses. If the foods are fed as a supplement to the former diet of hay and straw this is not an issue. However, when such foods from the bulk of the horse's diet, the lack of bulk and fiber can follow in discrete digestive issues (ulcers are common in such cases) and the lack of stimulation can follow in stress and the amelioration of undesirable habits (such as cribbing or repetitive movements).
One should also take note that if these high-energy foods are fed in excess, they can lead to carbohydrate overload, causing the serious disease laminitis. As some horses are more prone to this than others, due to breed type or old healing history, you should consult with your veterinarian before feeding large quantities. If your horse's current diet is already rich (e.g. Spring grass) then one should take pro guidance before supplementing it with any grain or musli products.
Mash
Mash is similar to musli in that it is a high-energy food made from grain, although mash tends to be a higher energy food than musli. A key inequity between the two is that musli is designed to be soaked in water, where it breaks down to form a mush or soup. It is often used as a supplement for old or sick horses, especially while warm weather where it can be made with warm (not hot!) water to help rewarm chilled horses. A additional advantage is that it contributes to the horse's water intake (unlike dry feeds), which is a advantage for horses which do not drink sufficient (a common problem with older horses).
Unfortunately, many horses lift their head away from their feeding pail while eating, and in the case of mash this can follow in them dropping a fair bit on the floor. Furthermore, if they toss their heads while eating (e.g. If startled by a noise), it tends to follow in the mash being sprayed on the walls. All such mess should be cleaned up to preclude the growth of mold or fungus. Alternatively, one may wish to feed them from a pail outside.
There are advantages and disadvantages to high energy foods; see the above seminar on grain and musli for an explanation of these.
Feed Variations
The above discusses the main types of horse feeds. Each of these types has a estimate of sub-types. For example:
- Grass. There are distinct types and qualities of grass. Furthermore, depending on the pasture, there will be differing amounts of other herbs (e.g. Clover). In addition, the nutritional value will be affected by the makeup of the soil, as well as the estimate of sun and rain. Consequently, some pastures are far more nutritious than others; this is not always an advantage as overly rich pasture can cause laminitis.
- Hay. As grassland varies in nutrition, so also does the hay which is made from it. Furthermore, hay varies depending on how it is made (e.g. How much it is dried, how long it is left in the field before baling) and how it is stored (temperature, moisture, sunlight) as well as how long it is stored.
- Grain. There are many distinct types of grain, which vary in their nutritional qualities. Depending on the types and ratios of the distinct grains you use, either directly or in the form of musli or mash, the food will have distinct nutritional profiles. In addition, the nutritional values will be affected by the increasing of non-grain additives such as: minerals, additives, fiber, filler, sugar in discrete forms.
In particular, there are many distinct types of musli, which use distinct grain and additive mixtures to furnish feeds aimed at specific types of horses. For example, one can find musli products which claim to use an optimum mix for: senior (old) horses, foals, pregnant mares, nursing mares, sport horses, show and competition (gives an consuming and shiny coat), complete feeds (intended to be used as the sole food rather than a supplement) and so on. These speciality foods vary in terms of the ratio of macro-nutrients (e.g. Proportions of protein, fat, involved carbohydrates, simple carbohydrates), the types and amounts of micro-nutrients (minerals and vitamins) and the source used (e.g. Fiber from beet-root has distinct characteristics than fiber from alfalfa in terms of speed and ease of digestion).
Unfortunately, distinct manufacturers have distinct and conflicting views on what these specific requirements are. For example, senior food from one maker will use higher than normal amounts of sugar because it is an absolutely digested energy source for older horses with reduced digestive capability, while senior food from other maker will use lower than normal amounts of sugar to avoid problems of Cushings disease and insulin resistance which are more common in older horses. Given these opposing and conflicting approaches, it can sometimes be hard to rule if a speciality food is absolutely best or worse for your horse. Consequently, it is advisable to discuss with a veterinarian your individual horse's condition and requirements before deciding on which of the speciality foods is most favorable for your specific horse.
Fruit and Vegetables
Although large amounts of fruit or vegetables are not a natural diet for a horse, small amounts as treats are suitable. Prior to feeding, they should be cut into small irregular pieces, as round pieces (e.g. A small whole apple) can come to be stuck in the throat and cause choking.
Acceptable fruits include: apples, bananas (peeled), pears. Acceptable vegetables include: beetroot, carrots, celery, parsnips, swede and turnip.
Do not feed onions, potatoes, rhubarb, tomatoes. Do not feed sour fruits. Be just of large amounts of sweet fruit as immoderate sugar can lead to weight gain, laminitis, or blood sugar imbalance. If a fruit or vegetable is not on the thorough list, do not feed to your horse without first consulting a veterinarian.
Final Notes
You should be consistent in what you feed your horse. If you voyage with your horse and are unsure that you will be unable to get the same type of food on your trip, try to take sufficient of his food to feed him until you return, or make arrangements to gain his normal food while the time away.
If you need to change your horse's diet, you should do so gradually. Likewise, if you are getting a new horse and plan to change his diet, it is wise to gain a quantity of his old food so that you can moderately change him over. When changing a horse's diet, you should thought about watch his behaviour and performance to ensure that there are no adverse results (e.g. Colic, laminitis, food allergies).
Determining the best diet for your horse is an prominent and serious matter, particularly if it is weak (old, very young, sick, dental issues) or has a weight issue (over or under) or has a food associated healing history (colic, laminitis, allergy, insulin resistance, etc.). It is advisable to build a favorable diet with a veterinarian or equivalent professional, based on a knowledge of your individual horse's specific requirements and intended use. A diet which is as natural as possible (e.g. Grass) is ordinarily the healthiest for the horse, unless it has specific requirements for other types of food.
Horse Feed - Comparison separate Types of Horse Food
Avicii vs Nicky Romero - I Could Be The One (Nicktim)
Video Clips. Duration : 4.77 Mins.
Avicii vs Nicky Romero - I Could Be The One (Nicktim)
Official video for Avicii vs Nicky Romero - I Could Be The One (Nicktim). Buy it on Itunes over here - smarturl.it www.facebook.com www.twitter.com www.facebook.com www.twitter.com
Avicii vs Nicky Romero - I Could Be The One (Nicktim)
Avicii vs Nicky Romero - I Could Be The One (Nicktim)
Avicii vs Nicky Romero - I Could Be The One (Nicktim)
Avicii vs Nicky Romero - I Could Be The One (Nicktim)
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Rock Crusher Maintenance
Know When It Is Going To Go Down
Just as is the case with roughly anything, the most likely time that rock crushers break down is when you will need to get the most out of them. As it is, you never perceive how prominent something is until you do not have it, or when it is most required. In order to skirt high heal costs and production loss, permissible periodical maintenance of rock crushers is required. The most logical thing to do in order to maximize the crusher life is to organize and execute a plan that will growth the life of the crusher thereby reducing heal cost and expanding the output. This can be done straight through laying down a rock crusher maintenance agenda that is adhered to. Following are five steps to help accomplish the goal.
1. Know and supervene the Rock Crusher Constraints
Every engine has a few reservations and this applies to a rock crusher as well. There are basically three limitations that are particularly prominent to be kept in mind while operating a crusher i.e. The horsepower, volume, and the crushing force. It is an overload if any one of these limitations is exceeded while operation. The operator needs to take into consideration the type of rock being crushed and environmental conditions as this too may turn the rock crusher's limits on the fly. By forcing the crusher to go beyond limits and stressing out dissimilar aspects of the machine, the lifespan is decreased and the time that it has in the middle of repairs and failure is shortened. All this leads to more heal expenditure, more man-hours, reduced production and in few cases permanent failure of the machine.
2. tip off yourself with the Maintenance Needs of your Rock Crusher
As with all the mechanical machines, maintenance is needed and must be followed. Rock Crushers are no different. There are three types of maintenance that one must supervene to properly say the crusher. They are - Preventive maintenance, Predictive maintenance and Reactive maintenance.
- Preventive Maintenance
This type of crusher maintenance plan need to be on a agenda and followed to keep up the crusher life. Following the manufacturer's maintenance by hand should be the rule in this case. This includes seeing after the components like crusher liners and other wearing components for their good health.
By not changing the liners in the crusher as they come to be less and less efficient, you will not only be losing money because of poor/out of spec product but also on labor as well since the operator will still be there for the same number of time, but doing much less crushing. Also, the out of spec or oversized material may re-circulate in a finished circuit to supplementary growth the load on the already deficient crusher.
- Predictive Maintenance
This refers to monitoring the health of the rock crusher while it is in use. This is done by using predictive maintenance tools, such as lubricating oil thermometers, lube oil pressure gauges, lubricating oil filter health indicator device, lube oil analysis, crusher drive motor ammeter and daily operator crusher log sheets. These are used to decree the normal operating specs of the crusher. This will allow seeing when things are not running properly and allow permissible and medicinal activity to occur.
- Reactive Maintenance
This maintenance occurs when the crusher is not operating properly and it is decided it is time to fix. In other words, waiting until it is broken in order to say it. This should be seen as the last resort and be avoided.
3. Root Cause Analysis
Identify and apply medicinal measures to the root cause because of which the rock crusher is facing issues. This can be very cost efficient in the long run as it will minimize the recurrence of the problem. Root cause determination not only helps in curbing the current qoute but also in forecasting the inherent of an incident. Thus medicinal measures can be implemented well in advance.
There are many dissimilar techniques and tools for conducting root cause determination like gathering data, checking the operator's skills and knowledge, inspection of the engine and end product, engine placement, military of nature, maintenance processes etc. Once the root cause is identified, organize the medicinal quantum plan which will best suit to accomplish your goals. The tracking of medicinal measures can be documented in the form of dash-boards for the staff.
4. organize and Implement an employee Training Plan
Many problems that would occur with a rock crusher can be prevented if employees are trained properly. Employees can be trained on one-to-one basis or straight through a group session. Group sessions are more advisable if a new technique or process has to be imparted to employees. employee training agenda should be designed in such a manner that it keeps in mind each employee's needs and current skill status.
Proper training of employees increases their morale, inevitable in operating the crusher, their efficiency to work and decreases employee turnover. Which in turn lead to better working engine and an growth in behalf over the long run.Employee training is not a one time job rather it should be done periodically so that each person is well qualified with the accurate and updated knowledge of operating and maintenance of the rock crusher.
Rock Crusher Maintenance
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Causes of Low Semen Volume
Having low semen volume can be a real belief crusher for a sexually active male. There are few things in life that are worse than expecting one thing and getting another, and for those men out there that suffer from low semen volume life can be like that a great deal. One of the things that many of these men spend their times doing is trying to find out the separate causes of low semen volume and form out why it is happening to them, as this used to be the only way of dealing with the problem. These days there are other ways of increasing semen volume and without even having to know the cause of it, there are some surefire methods of fixing the problem.
Foods that increase Semen Volume
There are some foods out there that are known to help increase a man's semen volume. Foods that are especially rich in vitamins and minerals are great for helping out men who suffer from low semen volume. Foods that are rich in iron content are also great ways of helping to increase the size of a man's load, and drinking plenty of water never hurts things either. Water makes a lot of corporeal functions go that much more smoothly, and semen volume is authentically one of the things that are included in this. If you are eating enough and eating enough of the right things, having a qoute with semen volume shouldn't be a qoute at all. For those men that are doing all of this and more, there are some other solutions out there that are worth trying. Semen volume pills go right to the cause of low semen volume and cure it from there.
Semenax and Volume Pills
Semenax and Volume Pills are some of the most favorite male volume enhancing supplements on the market today. They work just like a quarterly vitamin and bring all of the indispensable vitamins and minerals to the body that it needs in order to get the larger ejaculation. Having a bigger load is foremost to men for separate reasons; some see it as a belief booster, others are seeing for more pleasure during sexual intercourse, and others are seeing to make a baby. Bigger loads directly lead to a man's fertility.
Finding out the cause of your low semen volume is not going to be easy, but you can skip the details and look into better nourishment or supplementation to help with your semen volume qoute today. It sounds like a horrible thing to take a pill to increase your semen volume, but it is much more base than any man would ever even stop to think.
Causes of Low Semen Volume
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